For our friends in warmer climates: We understand that not everyone pulls their boat out of the water this time of year … you lucky sailors.  Even though our first two issues have focused on haul-out and winterization, watch for more general articles in upcoming issues.

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DISCUSSION FORUMS AT MARINEDIESELDIRECT.COM  ~ What about parts for those older engines?

Some forum participants are buying boats with out-of-production engines such as Universal's Atomic 4 and Yanmar's YSM, YSE, YSB, SVE, SB.  One of the first questions to arise is: How do I find parts and manuals for these engines?  We hear it all the time, people saying that they can't find these parts.  Parts and manuals for these engines are still available and we can help you find just what you need.

One of our first suggestions is to purchase the appropriate parts manual for your engine.  This will provide line drawings of all engine systems and complete break down of every engine part with part number.  From this reference you will be able to easily order the parts you need by number.  You will also find our Yanmar common part indices arranged by engine to be a helpful reference.  

This resource is located at http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/yanmar-engine-parts-index.html.  For Universal and Westerbeke owners we offer similar reference materials at http://www.torresen.com/universal
To purchase manuals or for assistance finding the part you need for your engine, visit www.marinedieseldirect.com, email us at go_sail@torresen.com, phone 231-759-8596 or FAX 231-755-1522.

The forum now contains more than 250 posts.  If you have a question, we look forward to hearing from you.  Check out the searchable discussion forums at: http://forums.sailboatspecialists.com/eThreads/view/Yanmar

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DIESEL ENGINE SERVICE INTERVALS by Gordon Torresen

~ Editors Note: These are general recommendations and should only be used for informational purposes.  You should always consult with your local authorized and qualified marine engine service center for specifics on your engine.  Your actual engine or conditions may require deviation from these recommendations. 

Diesel engines are reliable beasts but they must receive proper preventive maintenance. Intervals between items vary but there is no such thing as too much care. If you are inclined to do everything at one time, do it at the required time for the soonest item. Keep a maintenance log if you do the work yourself or get detailed reports on the service from your yard and review the scope and timing to assure that future maintenance is timely.

This list is not meant to be all-inclusive. It will give some general outlines. It also will contain some personal opinions. If there are questions or other opinions, let us know and we will address them and/or add them to our list.

 1 - Lubricating oil - every 150 hours or seasonally if you lay the boat up. Run the engine until the oil is warm. Drain or pump the oil out, removing as much as possible.  Install a new filter (or rotate the handle on self cleaning strainers). Put in the new oil to bring the level up to the full mark on the dipstick. Use a quality oil with the proper designation for diesel use. Start the engine to circulate the new oil and to check for leaks at the filter. Stop the engine and recheck the level. Some of the oil is now in the filter and you may have to add a bit more to get to the full mark. It is not good to operate the engine with excessive oil.

Analysis of the oil should be performed every third or fourth oil change to get an indication of pending problems.

 2 - Fuel filter - This time interval is quite nebulous. If your fuel is kept clean, the filter doesn't get dirty. How do you know if the fuel is clean? Check the filter. Unfortunately, to check screw-on type filters they must be destroyed. Most primary filters have removable cartridges that can be inspected. A check should also be made of what is in the filter housing and/or water separator. If any water is evident, it's time to get water off the bottom of the tank.

Racor has a couple of interesting devices. One is a vacuum gage kit that you see into the suction side of your fuel lift pump. The gauge mounts anywhere and if it stays near zero, the filter is clean. As soon as vacuum increases, it's time for a filter change and investigation into the source of the contamination. The other is a water separator with electrodes that sets off an alarm if water is detected and has a petcock to drain off the water. Again, time to find out why. To put the time interval on a schedule, change the fuel filter when you change your lubricating oil.

Neither can be changed too often.

 3 - Coolant - at least every five years. In the cooler climes, check the antifreeze properties each fall and adjust as required. Again, more frequent changes will not hurt. Every cooling system should have something more than clear water. Rust inhibitors and heat transfer enhancers are most easily obtained in engine antifreezes. The relatively new "extended life" formulations appear to be the best.

 4 - Water pump impeller - Should at least be checked every 100 to 150 hours. The time between failures varies greatly, depending upon a number of variables. Everyone should carry a spare and know how to change it. Carry a cover gasket or O-ring as well. Store them in a zip-lock bag or other suitable enclosure to keep them away from life diminishing ozone.

 5 - Mechanical - continuously. Whenever you need something to do, examine the engine. Look for telltale dirt and oil droppings. Check bolt tightness - using the proper wrenches. Don't over tighten anything. Check the shaft coupling bolts and set screws frequently, especially after any service work in that area. A rusty appearing dust can indicate a loose attachment. Overall black or sooty appearance in the engine box usually indicates an exhaust leak. Black residue near a belt could indicate slippage. Keeping the engine area clean lets new dirt show up sooner to help lead you to possible problems.

 6 - Engine alignment - Some say this should be checked every time the boat is launched because the hull could change shape out of the water. The shape change is conceivable, depending on the boat and how it was stored on land. The reason to align the engine is to assure that the prop shaft is as close to the center of the tube it goes through on the way to the water. This gives the engine room to flop around its mounts in any direction without the shaft hitting the tube. With the shaft centered in the tube, the engine-coupling half is then aligned to the shaft coupling half, statically. The goal is to have the gearbox output shaft and the prop shaft directly in line with one another and the coupling halves perfectly parallel.
Engine misalignment, of itself does not cause vibration. If you experience vibration that is related to the shaft alignment, it is probably because the coupling halves are not perpendicular to their respective shafts.
Alignment should be checked whenever something else is found that might be related. If an engine mount is found to be loose, check the alignment in addition to tightening the offending bolt, etc.

 7 - Air filter - Most marine diesels do not have a foam or paper filter on the combustion air inlet. Those that do … shouldn't. A screen or mesh is adequate to keep out the big pieces. A sailboats engine space is generally about as clean as the surrounding living space. The biggest threat to the air is probably from falling hair. Check the air strainer at oil change time. If it has an accumulation of dirt, wash it off and put it back. Generally a few squirts of Simple Green and a hot water rinse will do the trick. If there is something more stubborn you might have to go to something like mineral spirits. Sections of the foam filters are sometimes missing and no doubt have been sucked into the engine.

 8 - Reversing gear oil - The gearbox oil level and color should be monitored. The level will not change unless there is a leak. The color (and smell) will not change unless there is slippage in the clutches.
A lack of oil change will not cause either. Color change to brownish and a burnt smell indicates clutch slippage. A leak or slippage requires repair. A milky appearance in the oil indicates water. It could get in by the gear being submerged or from condensation within the gear case. A prompt oil change is indicated, perhaps twice or more. Yanmar suggests a change every 50 hours.

 9 - Electrical - Occasionally check for loose wire end connectors. Assure that all screw-on connectors are tight. Clean the battery terminal connections. See that warning lights and buzzers are operational. Check that batteries have the proper water level (unless maintenance free or gel).
Check and adjust the alternator belt and check it for cracking or excessive wear.

 10 - Remote control system - At least annually, assure that the throttle and shift cables are properly secured. Assure that the lock nuts are securely tightened against their end fittings. The nuts are there to prevent axial motion in the adjusting threads, which eventually strips the threads. Lubricate Yanmar stop cables. While you are at it, check out the steering mechanism.

 11 - Valve adjust - about 600 hours. Check the valve clearance and adjust as required. If much adjustment is required, even on one valve, shorten the interval - something could be wearing. If virtually no adjustment is required maintain the interval for a second time. Same results, make it longer.
A Web based version of this article can be found at http://www.marinedieseldirect.com

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Winterizing Your Fresh (Internal) Water Cooled Inboard Engine by Gordon Torresen

This is to give general guidelines for the winterization of inboard engines that have internal, heat exchanger type cooling systems. Variations will become evident for different model engines, however the principals will be the same.

Engines do not freeze. It is the water within the engine and peripherals that can freeze and cause damage. To preclude freeze damage you must either eliminate the water or make it so that it will not freeze.

Good steps to follow:

 1) Check the specific gravity of the internal coolant. Antifreeze checkers are widely available, and very cheap. Depending on your location, be sure that the freeze protection is adequate. If protection is marginal, either drain some off and add 100% new or change the whole lot. Antifreeze should be changed every three to five years, according to Yanmar and the AF makers.

 2) Shut off the seawater intake sea cock, if the boat is in the water.

 3) Take the hose off the sea cock and put it into a jug of environmentally friendly antifreeze. It is sometimes easier to remove the hose at the pump and use a different hose into the jug.

 4) Start the engine and run it until the antifreeze comes out the exhaust.

 5) Reinstall the hose to the sea cock.

 6) Reopen the sea cock after the boat is hauled. If the boat is to be left in the water, the sea cock may require winterizing, again depending on the severity of your winter.

 If you are not located where winterizing is required, read this through and purr.

It is highly recommended that if the lube oil needs to be changed that it be done prior to lay-up so that fresh oil is coating the innards of the engine.  If fuel filters are in the plan do them first.  Then  start the engine to check the fuel filters and warm the engine to facilitate the oil change.

You will find a Web version of this article at http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/articles/winterizing-fresh-water-cooled-inboard.html


RELATED LINKS:

Marine Diesel Direct (Yanmar parts, references and online shopping): http://www.marinedieseldirect.com
Universal Direct (Universal, Westerbeke and Atomic 4  parts, references and online purchasing) http://www.torresen.com/universal
Torresen Sailing Site http://www.torresen.com